Mera Peak, (6654m) - Climbing in Nepal

Claimed to be the highest trekking peak in Nepal, this is a tough but spectacular passage into the seldom visited Makalu Barun National Park. The summit offers mind-blowing views, but make no mistake - although you do not need climbing experience for this peak, you will need plenty of stamina to make the summit.

Our expedition starts with a dramatic flight to the small mountain airstrip at Lukla, in the heart of the Khumbu region. Immediately in at the deep-end, our first objective is to cross the Charpate Himal at the Zatrwa La Pass. At 4,610m, we will need to acclimatize first, so our first two/three days are spent exploring the area around Chutanga (3,050m), building up strength and tolerance to the altitude.

Suitably acclimatized, we make our crossing of the Zatrwa La into the Hinku valley. We pass through pristine forests of blue pine and rhododendron and make a steep descent to the Hinku Khola. This river valley rarely sees visitors. With an eye always on acclimatization, we follow the river north towards Upper Hinku. Eventually, the forests give way to alpine meadow, and by Tangnag, the river valley has widened out to offer impressive views of the west face of Mera Peak and Peak 43. There is a real sense of isolation trekking in this valley; we are unlikely to meet anyone on our route to base camp except for the occasional yak herder.

We spend two more days continuing the acclimatization process. From our camp at Tangnag (4,350m), we head off on acclimatization walks, drink copious amounts of tea and build ourselves up for the summit approach. From Tangnag, we head in an easterly direction towards the moraine of the Dig Glacier, and then make a steep ascent to Khare (5,045m). Lower base camp is set at around 5,300m - near the 'Mera La' Pass (5,415m) on the 'Hongu' side of the mountain. With a spare day built into the program to allow for bad weather and acclimatisation, we explore the area before moving on to establish a high camp on the edge of the Mera Glacier. Our ascent up the glacier requires use of crampons and ropes, and we will need to keep a keen eye open for crevasses.

Incredible views meet us from Mera La and remain with us for the next three days; to the east Kanchanjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse, to the north Everest and Lhotse, and to the north east Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu and Kangtega. Five peaks over 8,000m are visible from Mera La in a sweeping panorama which many mountaineers consider to be the best in the Nepal Himalaya.

We have now entered a realm of snow and ice, and we push forward to establish high camp on the edge of the Mera Glacier at 5,800m. If conditions are favourable, we will make our summit push from here. Although there are three peaks to tempt us; Mera South (6,065m), Mera Central (6,654m) and Mera North (6,476m), our target summit is Mera Central.

On summit day, we leave camp under moonlight, navigating the glacier carefully to reach the first false summit by sun-up. We continue steadily onwards and upwards towards the Central Summit which involves a short steep section at the top. A spectacular panorama will meet our last few steps of the climb. With vistas to take away what little breath you have left, you may be entirely lost for words! After a moment to collect our thoughts, we turn on our heels for base camp at Khare, where we will meet our porters and trek crew and prepare for the return leg of the journey.

Mera Peak will certainly test your resolve, stamina and character. It is a high altitude trek, with oxygen levels of only 44% at the summit, and with a difficult high pass in the first week of the expedition. With preparation and determination however, we say it is one of the most rewarding non-technical climbs on offer in Nepal.

All our guides and porters are experienced, licensed and covered by insurance.

Come and join us for a life changing experience – with Himalayan Unforgettable Adventures!