Lobuche Peak, (6091m) Climbing Nepal

Lobuche East is a trekking peak in the Kumbhu Region of Nepal. It is classed as Grade PD+ (Peu Difficile+) on the Alpine Grading system although it is rated as one of the more technical climbs within this group of peaks. Certainly it is more technical than it’s more commonly climbed neighbours, Island Peak, Pokalde and Mera Peak.

There are two summits to Lobuche East, a “true” and a “false” with an expedition peak Lobuche West adjoining. There are a number of similar routes to the summit but we are climbing and describing the South East Ridge route. The first recorded ascent of this peak is surprisingly as late as 1984 by Laurence Neilson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa.

Following a few days in Kathmandu, we commence the expedition with a flight to Lukla, a small mountain airstrip deep in the Khumbu. We then set off towards the capital of the region – ‘Namche Bazaar’, with its bustling market and great bakeries. We stop here for a day’s acclimatisation

Beyond Namche, we follow the classic Everest trail, along the Dudh Khosi and then into the Imja Khola. Passing Sherpa villages, monasteries and temples we head on through forest of rhododendron and dwarf firs until we reach the alpine meadows above the tree line. With plenty of acclimatisation time built into the program, we make our way steadily in a northerly direction to the Khumbu glacier and our first destination – ‘Kala Pattar’. We gain unsurpassed views of Mount Everest from here, and build up strength for the second leg of our journey.

Retracing our steps down the Khumbu glacier and beyond to Lobuche, we trek to Dzongla which is on the way to the Cho La pass. Nearby we will set up base camp at an altitude of around 4700m. From there we will climb up and establish high camp at around 5250m. From the latter the route continues up a series of slabs of increasing steepness to give access to the South East Ridge. Further up, we are faced with a 45 degree snow wall to ascend onto the ridge. We will follow the ridge turning around seracs and ascending the various “lumps and bumps” towards the first summit. There are no real difficulties although there is a feeling of some exposure along the way. Between the first/false summit and the true summit there is a considerable descent but you are now near the top so its time to enjoy spectacular views.

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